Registered with
The Institute of Trichogists
Founded 1902
Afro-Carribbean Hair Care
Black hair is, essentially, tight, curly or wavy hair that, due to the outer layers (cuticles) being naturally frayed out and not lying down flat against the hair, causes the hair to have a duller, more lack lustre appearance than European (Caucasian) hair.
This is simply because black hair will absorb light instead of reflecting it. There are around seven to eleven cuticle layers on Afro hair making very resistant to chemical processing techniques.
The next layer of a hair is called the cortex. This is flat and weak in Afro hair therefore having little resistance to chemicals. This is why Afro hair is so easily and so often damaged by chemical abuse. Strong chemicals are needed to penetrate the cuticle layers, which are then too strong for the cortex.
African Caribbean hair lacks the ability to absorb moisture and so needs the regular application of conditioners.
Due to the necessary abundant use of hair products to black hair, a good shampooing technique is essential. One should endeavour to cleanse the scalp and hair of all debris and product build up whilst attempting not to strip the hair of natural oils and moisture. It is also most important to use the correct products in the right way at the right times. (See our hair health section).
PROBLEMS RELATED TO BLACK HAIR
TRACTIONAL ALOPECIA
Black hair tends to suffer a lot more than European hair with this complaint. A loss of hair is experienced due to the continual pulling or tugging of the hair by mechanical means (see other forms of hair loss section). When hair is continually pulled out in a particular area, the follicles slowly degenerate and eventually give up any further growth if the follicle dies.
Some of the different causes of Tractional Alopecia in black hair are:
Ponytails, braids, hairpieces, hair weaves, hair extensions, bonding, hot combing etc.
Certain areas of thinning hair will be seen after a while in places like the crown, top and frontal areas. The scalp can also become quite tender and sore.
TRACTIONAL FOLLICULITIS
This can be a flaky or pustular (spotty) condition that is mainly caused by tight braiding. It is a non-bacterial complaint.
FOLLICULITIS
This is a bacterial infection of the hair follicles caused by the formation of curved follicles allowing the possibility for the hair to grow back on itself, re-entering the skin, resulting in inflammation and possible scarring (keloids). This condition can also be caused by extreme and regular clipper use or shaving.
We are one of the top clinics in London dealing with all matters concerning black hair and our expert, Samantha Stewart, regularly appears on a very popular black web site called blackukonline.com. She is a specialist in this field and, due to demand, has to do a terrific amount of relaxing and perming, slowly repairing the hairdressing mistakes made by other salons.
ARE YOU AT BREAKING POINT WITH YOUR HAIR???Is your hair and, are your nerves, at about breaking point? Are you fed up of never being treated as an individual every time you visit your hairdresser?
The simple fact is that many salons treat every head of hair in the same way!! Do they really believe there is only one type of relaxer or perm solution that exists on the market?
My name is Samantha Stewart and I have been working alongside Richard Spencer at The Spencer Clinic for the past fifteen years. I have literally lost count of the many cases we receive each week concerning either severe hair breakage due to chemical over processing, or an obvious loss of hair due to a very common complaint called Tractional Alopecia, relating to long term tight hair styling.
The one main thing that most people complain of is the lack of information available to them. The black hair and beauty industry is vast, but there is no association or institute to recommend a reputable salon to those in desperate need.
Most of our clients, by the time they find us, are really at breaking point, in every sense. Upon their first visit to us, our aim is to re-educate them about their hair, advising them on the best and healthiest ways to style, relax and manage their hair according to each individual’s needs.
If they are in need of the help our therapy provides i.e. a scalp complaint or a hair loss problem or weak, fragile and breaking hair, we advise whatever type of treatment may be necessary for improvement and for how long and at what cost. All our products, whether used here or at home, are formulated, mixed and assembled by us on the premises. We know what is in them so we know how well they work!!
Each time we ask one of our new clients (who have come along to see us because of chemical breakage problems), the majority nearly all say that a consultation about their hair before a chemical procedure was never carried out.
A consultation is of the utmost importance so hair type and condition can be determined as well as the chemical history of the hair. This info will then help the hairdresser choose the correct strength of chemical to be used. Of course, there are some truly professional black salons out there with some amazing and talented stylists, but you must do your research.
A FEW POINTERS!!
A clever way to determine a good salon from bad is, if your hair is very weak and easily breaking; ask the salon to perform a chemical procedure. If they say “sure, no problem”, WALK OUT!!!! If they test your hair and refuse, then you know they can be trusted.
Why should it be acceptable to suffer with scalp burn or hair breakage? Bad salons are often managed by inexperienced hairdressers to who do not understand the extent of the damage which can be caused by chemicals.
Why do we put up with it? The answer is we don’t have many alternatives and, most of the time, the end result LOOKS good, even if the hair has been badly damaged in the process. Of course, a small amount of damage can often occur when using chemicals and styling, but this should only be limited towards the ends of the hair. It is NOT ok to have to suffer and put up with severely damaged hair due to professional incompetence.
Be good to yourself. Expect a professional service – after all, you’re paying for it!! Don’t be afraid to ask how long a process will take. If you’re worried or concerned, call the stylist over – don’t just sit there!!
MOST IMPORTANTLY – don’t accept severe breakage as part of the process.
We are continually contacted by solicitors who ask us to act as an expert witness for their client in claims against their hairdressers for malpractice.
Our hair is something we often take for granted until things go wrong. Therefore, in future, be kind to yourself when choosing a salon. THEY may end up doing something YOU might have to live with for a long time.
SAM STEWART
If you feel you could benefit from some help or advice, simply call our help line and ask to speak to Sam or Richard Spencer. We would be more than happy to assist you any way we can.